Saturday, 11 June 2016

Hyderabadi Haleem

Hyderabadi haleem (/ˈhaɪdərəbædɪˈhæliːm/) is a type of haleem popular in the Indian city Hyderabad. Haleem is a stew composed of meat, lentils and pounded wheat made into a thick paste. It is originally an Arabic dish and was introduced to the Hyderabad Stateby the Chaush people during the rule of the Nizams (the former rulers of Hyderabad State). Local traditional spices helped in evolving a unique Hyderabadi haleem that became popular among the native Hyderabadi Muslims by the 19th-century.
The preparation of haleem has been compared to that of Hyderabadi biryani. Though Hyderabadi haleem is the traditional hors d'oeuvre at weddings, celebrations and other social occasions, it is particularly consumed in the Islamic month of Ramadan duringIftar (the evening meal that breaks the day-long fast) as it provides instant energy and is high in calories. This has made the dish synonymous with Ramadan. In recognition of its cultural significance and popularity, in 2010, it was granted Geographical Indication status (GIS) by the Indian GIS registry office, making it the first non-vegetarian dish in India to get this status.

Haleem originated as an Arabic dish[1][2] with meat and pounded wheat as the chief ingredients. It was introduced to Hyderabad by theArab diaspora during the rule of the sixth Nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan, and later became an integral part of Hyderabadi cuisine during the rule of the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan.[3][4] Sultan Saif Nawaz Jung Bahadur, an Arab chief from Al Mukalla, Hadhramaut, Yemen, who was among the seventh Nizam's court nobility, popularised it in Hyderabad.[1][5] Addition of local flavours to the original recipe resulted in a taste distinct from other types of haleem.[6]
As a Hyderabadi, the month of Ramadan is something I always look forward to. Sure it is an auspicious and a significant time of the year for Muslims across the globe, but this holy month is a little bit more special for both residents and visitors of Hyderabad – thanks to the midnight bazaars at Charminar, lavish Iftar parties and most importantly, the iconic Haleem. Yes, the Haleem! It is what most Hyderabadis look forward to, without any kind of biases or prejudices. After all, it is one of the archetypal culinary delicacies of the city.

I still remember the first time I tasted Haleem at one of the Pista House joints – the perfectly cooked, heavily spiced stew made of pounded chicken and lentils with lots of ghee added atop! The spoonful of Haleem just melted into my mouth while its divine taste still lingered in the taste buds for a long time. Since then, as Ramadan approached each year, I waited for the Haleem joints placed in the nook and cranny of the city to open. And I believe that many others like me do so, too.
Haleem was originally a native to the Arab cuisine, but was introduced to Hyderabad by the Arab diaspora during Nizam rule. Like the authentic Hyderabadi Biryani and several other traditional recipes, Arab Haleem was also exposed to the local culinary style and was infused with a number of local spices, thus obtaining a unique taste. Unlike in many Muslim regions, Hyderabadi Haleem is prepared with a variety of lentils, meat, and spices which are pounded together and cooked on a low flame for about 12 hours. The ingredients and preparation method used here are somewhat similar to the Haleem made in Karachi, Pakistan. However, the local spices give the Hyderabadi version a peculiar taste and flavor.

An important hors d’oeuvre at Ramadan Iftar parties and Muslim weddings, Hyderabadi Haleem is often considered as an international delicacy craved by many a man. The dish is so popular with people that it managed to become the first Indian meat dish to be rewarded with a Geographical Indication status by the GI registry office of India.
It should not come to one as a surprise when the month of Ramadan is synonymized with Haleem in Hyderabad and surrounding places. The city attracts a lot of visitors who wish to savour the delicacy during this holy month. Haleem tourists, as they are fondly called, visit the famous Haleem taverns and gorge on various types of Haleem available to choose from their chalkboard-written menus. Though most of the places predominantly sell Haleem prepared with chicken, mutton and beef,  other variants of Haleem are also available, like the ones made with fish, emu bird, and assorted vegetables.
Figures shows that 5 billion rupees worth Haleem was sold in Hyderabad during the Ramadan month in 2014. More than 7000 Haleem taverns were set up in the city and about 28% of the production was packed and exported to more than 50 countries across the globe. Well, that’s nothing but the sheer magic of this ambrosial delicacy.
Have you tasted the iconic Hyderabadi Haleem yet? If not, this is the perfect time. Make haste and head down to one of those delectable Haleem eateries in the city before Ramadan month ends. Of course, there are some places that stay open for a few days after the festival and a couple of roadside joints at King Koti sell traditional Haleem all year round. However, the true taste of this exquisite dish can only be experienced during the days of Holy Ramadan.


Preparation[edit]


Mixed wheat, dal and other grains
Traditionally, Hyderabadi haleem is cooked on a low flame of firewood for up to 12 hours in a bhatti (a cauldron covered with a brick and mud kiln). One or two people are required to stir it continuously with wooden paddles throughout its preparation. For home-made Hyderabadi haleem, a Ghotni (a wooden hand masher) is used to stir it until it reaches a sticky-smooth consistency, similar to mashed mince.[7][8]

Ingredients[edit]


Spices used in preparing Hyderabadi Haleem
The ingredients include meat (either goat meat, beef or chicken); pounded wheat; ghee—(milk fat rendered from butter, also called clarified butter); milk; lentils; ginger and garlic paste; turmeric; spices such as cumin seeds, caraway seeds (shah zeera), cinnamon,cardamom, cloves, black pepper, saffron, jaggery, natural gum, allspice (kabab cheeni); and dry fruits such as pistachio, cashew, fig and almond. It is served hot topped with a ghee-based gravy, pieces of lime, choppedcoriander, sliced boiled egg and fried onions as garnish.[3][9][10][11]

Variations[edit]

Different variants have been introduced catering to regional taste and requirements. A meethi (sweet) variant of haleem is consumed as breakfast by the Arab diaspora in Barkas neighbourhood of the city.[12] The chicken variant is less popular, even though it is lower priced. A vegetarian version of haleem, in which dry fruits and vegetables are substituted for goat meat, is available at some eateriesin Hyderabad.[13]

Nutrition[edit]


Popularity
[edit]Hyderabadi haleem is a high calorie dish which gives instant energy as it contains slow-digesting and fast-burning ingredients.[14][15] It also contains dry fruits rich in anti-oxidants.[9][16] The meat and dry fruits make it a high protein food. A new low-cholesterol variety by using emumeat, rich in minerals, phosphorus and vitamins, was introduced in 2013.[17][18] The Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation (GHMC), a local civic body that monitors health and safety regulations in the city, has set up hygiene and quality standards to be followed by the eateries selling it.[19]

Ghotni a wooden hand masher, used to muddle meat and wheat while cooking haleem until it becomes a thick paste.
Hyderabadi haleem is regarded as an international delicacy.[20][21] In Hyderabad, the dish is often consumed at celebratory events such as weddings.[14] It is consumed especially during Iftaar, the evening meal following the day-long fast, observed by Muslims during the month ofRamadan.[22][23]
In Hyderabad and neighbouring areas, the month of Ramadan is synonymous with Hyderabadi haleem.[24] During the 2014 Ramadan season, ₹5 billion worth of Hyderabadi haleem was sold in the city,[25] and an additional 25,000 people were employed in the preparation and sale of haleem.[26] The connoisseur chefs are paid salaries of up to ₹100,000 (US$1,500) a month plus benefits,[27] As of 2011, during Ramadan there were 6,000 eateries throughout the city that sold haleem (70% of which are temporary until Ramadan ends),[28][29] and 28% of Hyderabadi haleem produced in the city was exported to 50 countries throughout the world.[28]

Sanjeev Kapoor, an entrepreneur of Indian cuisine, mentions in his book Royal Hyderabadi Cooking that the preparation of haleem in Hyderabad has become an art form, much like the Hyderabadi biryani.[30] In 2010 Hyderabadi haleem was awarded Geographical Indication status by the Indian GI registry office. It became the first meat product of India to receive a GI certification,[15][31] This means that a dish cannot be sold as Hyderabadi haleem unless it meets the necessary standards laid down for it.[29][32]

Haleem (Arabic: حلیم‎‎, Urdu: حلیم‎, Turkish: Halim aşı, Persian: حَلیم‎‎, Bengali: হালিম, Hindi: हलीम ) is a stew popular in the Middle East,Central Asia, Pakistan, and India. Although the dish varies from region to region, it always includes wheat, barley, lentils and meat. Popular variations include keşkek in Turkey, Iran, Azerbaijan and northern Iraq; harissa in the Arab world and Armenia; khichra in Pakistan and India; and Hyderabadi haleem in Telangana, India.
Haleem is made of wheat, barley, meat (usually minced meat of beef or mutton or chicken), lentils and spices, sometimes rice is also used. This dish is slow cooked for seven to eight hours, which results in a paste-like consistency, blending the flavors of spices, meat, barley and wheat.

Origin[edit]

The origin of Haleem lies in the popular Arabian dish known as Harees (also written as Harissa). According to Shoaib Daniyal, writing in The Sunday Guardian, the first written recipe of Harees dates back to the 10th century, when Arab scribe Abu Muhammad al-Muzaffar ibn Sayyar compiled a cookbook of dishes popular with the "kings and caliphs and lords and leaders" of Baghdad. “The version described in his Kitab Al-Tabikh (Book of Recipes), the world’s oldest surviving Arabic cookbook, is strikingly similar to the one people in the Middle East eat to this day” it reported. Harees was introduced by Arab soldiers of the Hyderabad Nizam's army to the city.[2][3][4] Today, Harees is still available in the Arab quarter of Hyderabad, an area called Barkas, where the dish is called Haris.[2] Later on, the people of Hyderabad modified it to suit their palate thus creating modern Haleem.[3]

Cultural History[edit]

Haleem is sold as a snack food in bazaars throughout the year. It is also a special dish prepared throughout the world during the Ramadan and Muharram months of the MuslimHijri calendar, particularly among Pakistanis and Indian Muslims.[5][6]
In India, Haleem prepared in Hyderabad during the Ramadan month, is transported all over the world through a special courier service. Haleem is traditionally cooked in large, wood-fired cauldrons.[7]
Haleem is also very popular in Bangladesh, especially during the holy month of Ramadan, when it is a staple dish, although it is cooked differently than in other countries. The meat is not blended into the daal over many hours.[8][9]
In Pakistan, Haleem is available all year round, as well as in most Pakistani restaurants around the world. Haleem is sold as a snack food and street food in Pakistani bazaarsthroughout the year.[10][11]

Hyderabadi haleem[edit]

Hyderabadi haleem
Haleem has become a popular dish in the city of Hyderabad, Telangana, in India. Originating from an Arabic dish called Harisa, haleem was introduced to the region during the Mughal period by foreign migrants.[12]
Both mitthi (sweet) and khari (salted) variants are served, commonly for breakfast; likewise it is a popular dish to serve ending the fast during Ramadan. A derivative in which dried fruits and vegetables are used, is also prepared during Ramadan. It is also served as a traditional starter at Muslim weddings and other celebrations.[citation needed]

Haleem and khichra[edit]

In South Asia, both haleem and khichra are made with same ingredients. In khichra, the chunks of meat remain as cubes, while in haleem the meat cubes are taken out of the pot, bones are removed, meat is crushed and put back in the pot. It is further cooked until the meat completely blends with the lentils, wheat and barley mixture.[13][13][14]

Preparation[edit]

A traditional Haleem is made by firstly soaking wheat, barley and gram lentil overnight. A spicy meat gravy called Korma is prepared until the meat becomes tender. The wheat, barley and gram are boiled in salt water until they are tender. The cooked wheat, barley and lentils are then mixed with the meat (Beef or Mutton or Chicken) gravy and blended with a heavy hand mixer to obtain a paste-like consistency. The cooking procedure takes about 6 hours to be completed. However, Haleem preparation varies in different regions.[citation needed]

Nutrition[edit]

A high-calorie dish, haleem provides protein from the meat and fibre and carbohydrates from the various combinations of grains and pulses.

Serving[edit]

Haleem can be served with chopped mint leaves, lemon juice, coriander leaves, fried onions, chopped ginger root or green chilies. In Pakistan, haleem is usually eaten with naan or with any type of bread or rice.
Haleem is also sold as street food throughout Pakistan.[15]